"According to Mr. Ben Boone's account, Joseph French, with his family settled the place where Murphysboro now is in 1808. It seems that at some time afterwards, the land becarne the property of Dr. John Logan, who lived there many years, and there Gen. John A. Logan was born in 1826.
"When the courthouse at Brownsville was destroyed by fire on the night of the 10th of January, 1843, the people of the county took legal steps to have the county seat removed to some other place, so commissioners were appointed by the county commissioners court to select the site of the proposed town. William C. Murphy, Samuel Russell and John Cochran were the men that were appointed to perform that duty. They reported that ‘after due examination of several places, a site was chose, situated on land belonging to Dr. John Logan. Dr. John Logan donated twenty acres for the town plat.
"The location was made permanent on the first day of August 1843. The land was laid off into lots and streets with a central square for the use of the county for buildings. The county commissioners had the plat recorded and proceeded to sell lots. The town was named after one of the commissioners, Murphy's Borough, but the name was, by common consent, joined into one word, the apostrophe and the last three letters dropped, and spelled Murphysboro.
The first court was held in a frame house that was moved there for that purpose. Very soon houses began to arise. The county built a court house of brick in the middle of the square. The court room occupied all of the first floor. Two sets of stairs started respectively from the northeast and northwest corners of the court room and met at the north end of a hall that ran north and south, with offices on each side. The circuit clerk's office was in the southwest corner, and the county clerk's in the southeast corner. The judge's seat was on the south side of the court room, and on the east, west and north sides each, a door.
In the fall of 1845, the court house had been finished, and the walls of the Logan House were going up, and the house was completed soon afterwards; but it was only two stories high. Dr. Logan kept hotel in that house until his death which occurred several years afterwards. Brush and Hanson opened a store one block east of the square, but after a while they dissolved partnership and kept separate stores. The town was not long without drinking houses, and they have been its curse ever since.
Of the three commissioners who located the town, William C. Murphy has been dead a long time; Samuel Russell died at his home near Fredonia, Williamson Co. about l875; John Cochran died at Ava in January, 1888. He was the only one of the three that lived to see the wonderful growth of the city that they had planted.
County court was first held in the new town on the 4th day of March, 1844, but probate court was held in November, 1843. From this time until 1850, there was very little improvement; most of the buildings were close around the square; and all, with perhaps two or three exceptions, were within the town plat. D. H. Brush had his house and store on Cherry Street between Chestnut and Walnut Streets; John M. , Hanson's house and store was on Cherry north of Walnut, but in later years, his store was on Main street north of Walnut. James M. Morgan had a store at the corner north of Walnut and east of Broad streets, that was afterwards occupied by Dr. Bierer. James Golliher lived in a small house at the corner north of Mulberry and west of Cherry streets, (the corner east of the jail.) His door was so low that when his father-in-law, Judge U. E. Robinson, who was tall, entered the house, he had to stoop. South of this, still on Cherry street, on the west side, was the home of Judge M. F. Schwartscope, and farther south on the east side of the street was the home of Lindorf Ozborn, and north of this was the home of Gov. A. M. Jenkins.
The town was surrounded on three sides by fields, but on the south, where the land suddenly drops down to the flats or river bottoms, by woods. There were two roads leading to the south part of the county, the principal one crossed the river at Mt. Carbon, either at the ford or ferry, according to the depth of the water; the other road crossed the river at the Fish-Trap Shoal, where the M. & O. Rail-road crosses. There was no church or school house in the town at that time, except a log house that stood at the south side of the town, in the edge of the woods, which was used for both church and school purposes for many years.
Murphysboro was a very dull place usually when there was neither court nor election in progress. Circuit court was only held one week in the spring and one week in the fall, and elections were only once a year; but at these times the farmers from the whole county would crowd in, and the town would then be lively, yes! Very lively-for even at that time there were several "groceries"' as they were then called; for they were not yet dignified by name of "saloons," but in them whiskey was cheap and abundant; drunkenness and fighting were very common occurrences. It was often the case, that during the time that an earnest counselor was making his best effort before a jury, a fight would begin just outside of the court house, which soon became exciting and general; the crowd shouting, the audience in the court room rushing out, even the judge and jury peep out through the windows. For a time the counsel pleads in vain, but no one hears him as long as the fight continues.
Near the place where the south end of the row of brick buildings east of the court house now is, was a horse track; the ground was beaten hollow by the stamping of the beasts. One day, during circuit court, after a shower, when the hollow was a pond and several horses standing in it, two men began to fight, their friends on both sides pitched in, and there was a struggling and surging mass of humanity, fighting, rolling and kicking, until the whole pile rolled into the water under the horses; the excited crowd meanwhile cheering or swearing. The dogs that were present could not long remain silent spectators, but soon joined in the fray and did their best. The court house was deserted, the groceries emptied, and confusion reigned. Such a sight; men, horses, dogs, torn shirts, and mud mixed together. In those days when Judge Denning presided at the circuit court, the people would come on Monday morning, but often had to wait until Tuesday or Wednesday before the judge would come to organize the court. He was reported sick (?) at the Logan House. When there was too much noise in court, the judge would tell the sheriff, John Elmore, to have "silence in the court," then Mr. Elmore would go in a quiet manner to the persons that were talking too loud, and whisper to them to keep silence. Whenever a juror, witness or lawyer was wanted, the sherriff called their names at the door, for most of them would be in the "grocery" or close around there. Among the lawyers of that time may be mentioned Gov. A. M. Jenkins of Murphysboro, Gov. John Dougherty of Jonesboro, and Willis Allen of Marion. ·
In later times, to the bar was added John A. Logan of Murphysboro, W. J. Allen of Marion, Lenard Keen of Carbondale who so often jumped up in court and exclaimed, "May it please the court, I object." Col. D. H. Brush also began to practice law about this time.
The town began to receive a new impetus in 1850. At that time, the Jackson County Coal Company began operations about three·fourths of a mile south of the court house, at the place they called Dorchester; and for the first time the people of Murphysboro knew what sort of people coal miners or colliers were. The company paid out money to their many hands, and most of it found its way to the merchants and whisks sellers of Murphysboro. Thus the town began to prosper, and many new houses were built.
During the time of the spring term of the circuit court in 1850, the Alton Presbytery met at Murphysboro. They held their business meetings in the old log school house, and continued in session all the week. Each day, during the recess of the court at noon, one of the ministers preached in the court room. Rev. Norton of Alton, was moderator of the Presbytery. During the same week, Big Muddy River was very high, so that people had to ferry from the hills at Mount Carbon all the way across the low part of the '"flats." All the high bank where the north end of the bridge is now, was covered deep enough to ferry over. This flood was from head-water, running with a strong current.
In 1851, the Mississippi was very high; the highest that was ever known, except the rise of 1844, which exceeded this by four feet. This time it backed up the river very high at Mt. Carbon. The Jackson County Coal Company boated out their coal with a small steamboat, which continued her trips for nearly two months. This company continued to work for several years, and most of the money that they paid out found its way to town, which began to grow and look more a like a business place than it had been heretofore.
About the year 1854, Rev. Josiah Wood, a Presbyterian minister, undertook to persuade the people to build a church in the town, and by great exertions he succeeded during the winter and spring following, so far as to get the frame of a large church built and the roof and siding on, so that the weather would not spoil it; but there it stuck; nobody would help it any farther. Mr. VVood, in disgust, left and went and built a church at Carbondale. The unfinished house in Murphysboro remained in that condition for many years, while saloons prospered and increased in number, but the church was used as a public stable by
every one who rode to town, to hitch their horses in.
When the town afterwards became prosperous, the old church was finished off and made into a theater and beer saloon. It is the same building that was afterwards called "Concert Hall." It stands at the corner south of Mulberry and west of Cherry street.
About these times, David Williams kept a "grocery" just south-east of the court house that was a convenient resort of the thirsty citizens.
In the spring of 1855, the county court, in selecting a grand jury, said to each other, "let us have the best men in the county, men of intelligence and honesty on this grand jury." They went over the tax list and selected the best men in the county. When the grand jury met, among other indictments, they found a bill against the county court for the condition in which the jail was kept. That court did not think that they would try that experiment again. The county court then consisted of county judge and two associates. At that time, the jail was a small wooden house that stood near the court house.
The first newspaper published in Jackson County was printed at Murphysboro April, 16, 1854. It was published by Mr. Bierer, and was called the "JACKSON DEMOCRAT."
It flourished for a for a few months, then it fell into the hands of Charley Cummings, who soon ran it into debt and contempt, and abandoned the enterprise. There it ended.
About these times or sooner, James M. Morgan, Thomas M. Logan and Lindorf Ozborn built the mill at the foot of the hill.
On the 3rd, 4th and 5th of January, 1855, the county sold the swamp lands at public auction at the court house. These lands were given by the United States to the State of Illinois, and by the State to the county, to be sold, the money to be used in draining the land. By this means it was hoped that much good land would be reclaimed and the general health of the people improved. The county needed a new court house about that time. "This money belongs to the county, and, although intended for a special purpose, yet it will do the county more good to build a court house than to dig ditches in the Mississippi bottoms." So it was decided to do so, ignoring the rights of purchasers, and most of the swamp land money was used for that purpose soon afterwards. The new court house was built east of the old build- ing, and fronting on Main Street. The old house was not removed until the new building was finished and occupied. The court room is above, and the clerk's oiiices below. The house has been changed around several times since its was first built; and some years ago, it was enlarged by the addition of two fire-proof rooms and a third story in a mansard roof, the whole, surmounted by a cupola and clock.
When the war came on, Murphysboro, like every other place, became dull, and business came to a stand. The Jackson County Coal Company had long before that time quit mining coal, the mines had been abandoned, the houses at Dorchester deserted, and the steamboat disabled. So nothing was left to make any trade or business, and the war claimed the attention of all for a few years.
About the time of the close of the civil war, in 1865, the Mt. Carbon Coal Company began operations at Mt. Carbon. They sank several shafts, and employed a large force of miners and other hands. They built a rail-road from Grand Tower to Mount Carbon, which was afterwards extended to Carbondale. They went to work on such a large scale, that it threw all of the works of the Jackson Coal Company into the shade. Murphysboro began to grow and prosper as if by magic. Soon all the old town plat was built up. and additioins made, two by John A. and Thomas M. Logan on the west,and one by William Logan on the east; afterwards soon followed by additions by the Logans and others on all sides, which were quickly built up. The town obtained a city charter, but in so doing, included within the city limits all the works at Mt. Carbon. This displeased the Mt. Carbon Company, who had laid off all the flats into town lots, and had built nearly fifty houses on them. But they vacated the plat, and build fifty houses on the hills south of Big Muddy. The corporate limits were afterwards so odified as to exclude all south of the river.
Big Muddy coal soon had such a name that other parties began to buy or lease coal lands around Murphysboro. Joseph Gartside sank four shafts north of town, and the Lewis Company sank one shaft. The St. Louis and Cairo Rail Road, (Narrow gauge,) was constructed from St. Louis to Murphysboro, thus giving an opportunity to all those mines north of town to ship coal directly to St. Louis. During the coal excitement, another rail-road was surveyed to run from Mt. Carbon to Pinckneyville, but it was dropped and nothing more was done about it. The Gartside mines and the Lewis mines gave employment to a large number of men, and thus the city continued to grow and prosper. All the land between the town and the new rail-road was laid off into lots, and some buildings erected before the panic came in 1873, after which, the mines began to slacken their work, the prosperity of the town soon stopped, and the erection of new buildings ceased, except old ones that had been destroyed by fire.
Twice within a few years, had the block east of the court house been consumed by fire, both times endangering that building. The block south of the square and the one north of the square have both been burned and the old wooden buildings replaced by brick edifices. The mill at the corner of Union and Hanson Streets has also been consumed and rebuilt.
For many years, the city has had its share of newspapers: the Argus, the Era, the Independent and the Tribune. In later years, some of them issued dailies.
There are now several churches and a fine brick school house as successors to the old log school house which has disappeared long ago. The brick school house is in the south-east part of the town on the slope of the hill.
This town, which has been built by the coal interest, came to a stand when that interest was nearly dead. The coal is there in almost inexhaustible quantities, and it will be in demand again some day.
In 1880, business began to revive after seven years of stagnation. The coal companies again commenced to work on a large scale. The Mt. Carbon Company built a long row of coak ovens near their rail-road. The Carbondale Coal and Coak Company, which had for years been mining coal at Carterville, now sank a shaft north o Murphysboro, and built a row of coak ovens northeast of the city and named the place "Harrison." They also extended the Carbondale and Shawneetown Rail Road to Harrison and westward to connect with the St. L & C. (Narrow Gauge.) Next they made a rail-road from Harrison to Pinckneyville in Perry County.
After this the city improved rapidly, and g several good buildings were soon erected, including a very handsome city hall. Most of the space between the old town and the Narrow Gauge was filled up with houses. The city bids fair to still increase for some time.
Most of the foregoing sketches of this city were written in 1883 or sooner. Since that date many occurrences have transpired. The St. Louis and Cairo Rail Road became a part of the Mobile and Ohio Rail Road. That company soon changed it to the standard gauge. They built their machine shops just west of the track, and covered several acres with tracks and buildings. Afterwards, they built a brick passenger house on the south side of Walnut Street, the old one being further north. The St. Louis Coal Rail Road, (as the road from Marion to Pinckneyville was designated,) became a part of the St. L. A. & T. H. R. R. or "Short Line." That company ran a track from Harrison a southwest course to the northwest corner of the old Fair Grounds, from thence south through the cemetery and along Union Street to Walnut Street, two blocks west of the court house. They built a brick passenger house north of Locust Street. The train usually backs down from Harrison.
The Grand Tower and Carbondale Rail Road built a bridge across Big Muddy at the lower ford, and ran a track across the flats, striking the hill east of the school house, then in a sinuous track to their two new shafts near Harrison, and still on to connect with the Short Line. They built a passenger house at the east end of Walnut Street. Murphysboro has increased at a rapid pace since 1883, and still continues to grow.
Two large mills and grain elevators have been erected, one near the M. & O., and one near the Short Line depot. A large brick school house was erected in the north west part of the city. Many churches have raised their towers on high, to point the way of PEACE, but they are out numbered by splendid saloons that lead the other way. The city has not only filled up all the space towards the M. & O. R. R., but has spread north nearly to Gartside's shaft and south to the edge of the river bottoms. North to the Fair Grounds is all built up, and two coal shafts are in operation there. Quite a large addition has been built east of the G. T. & C. depot, and another extensive addition has been laid off west of M. & O. R. R., which is fast being filled up with fine houses.
The Logan House was burned in 1883, but a much larger hotel arose on its ruins in 1888 bearing the same name.
About the same time, a street rail-road was put into operation running from the Chicago & Texas depot westward along Walnut Street to its western termination.
The city also put in a system of sewers, and made arrangements with a company to have water-works and electric lights. So now the city is well lighted and well supplied with water from Big Muddy River.
Walnut Street was extended eastward to the river, and at that point the light and water-works were erected. Murphysboro, being a center of the coal industry, has put on metropolitan airs, and become one of the large cities of lower "Egypt.," and is still growing.
[Edmund Newsome, writing about Murphysboro, IL, "Historical Sketches of Jackson County, Illinois, 1894]
Courtesy of Karen Allison
